Gallery: Exclusive Gallery: 1983 Nintendo Family Computer Teardown
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Over in Japan, the NES was called the Nintendo Famicom, or Family Computer. Like the SNES, or Super Famicom that followed it, the original Famicom -- launched in 1983 -- looked a lot different from the one that was sold in the rest of the world. In this exclusive gallery, shot in exquisite detail by the folks at [iFixit](http://www.ifixit.com/), we take a look inside the spiritual home of Mario, part of a series showing off iFixit's new set of console repair guides. Originally, the Famicom was white. This aging specimen, picked up by iFixit boss Kyle Wiens, is a rather more discolored beige. The hideous burgundy details are pretty close to the original, though.
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Here are the specs: - Ricoh 2A03 8-bit 1.79-MHz processor (MOS Technology based on the - Motorola 6502 8-bit processor core) - 2-KB (16Kb) on-board RAM - 2-KB (16Kb) on-board video RAM - PSG Sound - 256 x 240 pixels resolution
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From left to right: - AC-adapter port - TV/Game switch - Channel-selector switch - RF audio-video output
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The Famicom was the first console to incorporate D-pad controllers to acquire user input. Departing from the era of joysticks, the inclusion of the D-pad allowed for quick and accurate controls. One of these things is not like the other. Given the matching design of the controllers, it is important to note that there are indistinguishable details that make each controller unique.
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The first controller boasts the traditional layout: D-pad on the left, Select and Start buttons in the center, and B and A buttons on the right. However, the second controller flaunts the inclusion of a built-in microphone and a volume switch, all at the expense of the central Select and Start buttons.
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The Famicom's miniscule 4-watt power supply won't be popping fuses anytime soon. That's about 2.5 percent of the power the Xbox 360 devours.
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Plain old [Phillips screws](http://stag-komodo.wired.com/science/discoveries/news/2008/07/dayintech_0707) keep the case together.
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Two antiquated connectors exchange signals between the controllers and the board. Want to disconnect a controller? Gotta remove the bottom cover. Controller II has an extra wire for microphone input and controlling the volume.
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After disconnecting them from the board, the controller cables can be lifted out of the case.
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More Phillips screws: Lifting the assembly out of the case gives us a good luck at the archaic silicon that makes this thing tick.
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Notable chips on the board include: - Ricoh RP2A03G 8-bit, 1.79-MHz CPU - Ricoh RP2C02G-0 8-bit, 5.32-MHz PPU - Toshiba TC40H368P hex bus buffers - Sharp LH5216D-12 static RAM - Hitachi HD74LS139P decoder/demultiplexer - Fujitsu MB74LS373 Unsurprisingly, lead solder abounds on the bottom of the board. [RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances)](http://www.rohs.gov.uk/) wasn't established until 20 years after this puppy was made.
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Cute!
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After the logic-board assembly is out, the Reset and Power button covers can easily be removed.
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Unclipping a spring is all that's needed to remove the eject mechanism from the outer case. Ejecting a cartridge is accomplished by pushing two inclined planes underneath the cartridge, until it pops up off the connector attached to the board.
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Gently releasing the retaining clips holding the cartridge together reveals a 60-pin printed circuit board.
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Front and back sides of the Famicom cartridges.
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This PCB from a Tennis cartridge has two ROM packages, totaling 24 KB soldered to one side.
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And there you have it: the Famicom in pieces. Be sure to keep an eye on [iFixit's teardown page](http://www.ifixit.com/blog/category/teardowns/) for an inside look at all the latest gadgets.
